The Rolex That Got It Wrong

Most people would recognise a Rolex Submariner from across a room. Identifying a particular dial variation, however, tends to require a closer look and perhaps an explanation of why someone is so interested in the lettering beneath the hands.

With vintage Rolex, these are often the details that make the conversation interesting. Over a reference’s production life, seemingly minor changes to printing, bracelets and components created variations that collectors would later study with considerable enthusiasm. The reference number tells you which watch you are looking at. The smaller details help explain which version.

The Red Submariner

Reference 1680 was introduced in the late 1960s and provided the Submariner with a date display for the first time. Above the date sat the familiar Cyclops lens on the crystal. It was a practical addition to a watch originally designed as a diving instrument – and a detail that remains central to the collection.

During the first part of production the name Submariner appeared in red. In the mid-1970s Rolex switched to white text. The red text was used for a relatively short period, but gave the earlier watches their own identity: the Red Sub.

On the wrist the difference is subtle. The red text occupies a small part of the dial, but still changes its expression and adds a splash of colour to an otherwise functional design. Once you have noticed it, the eye is readily drawn back to it.

A closer look at this particular example

The 1973 example we have features a Mark IV dial where the red Submariner text is printed on top of a white background. "Mark IV" is part of the terminology collectors use to distinguish between different executions of the Red Sub dial. It may seem like a fairly specialised difference—until you start comparing the pieces side by side.

The folded Oyster link, reference 9315, holds another detail worth investigating. Open the clasp and look at the diver's extension. The word that should read "Patented" is stamped "Pateted". Somewhere in production an "n" fell away.

It's a known misspelling that appears on some diver's extensions from the period. The link on this example also lacks a date stamp, another detail noted in the description. None of this is immediately visible when the watch is on the wrist. You have to know where to look.

Why collectors care

A typo doesn't automatically make an item valuable. For vintage watches, its appeal depends on the context: whether the variation is recognized, how rare it is, and how it relates to the watch's condition and overall originality.

Part of the allure lies in the unexpected origin. Rolex has built its reputation on precision and consistency. Finding a small manufacturing mistake on one of the brand's links offers a glimpse of the process behind the finished watch. It's an unintended detail that remained and eventually became something enthusiasts actively began looking for.

The combination also makes the watch's future intriguing. The reference's historical significance is established, and the more unusual variations give collectors plenty to explore. Whether that also translates into higher prices depends on the market, the condition and the individual example. Its appeal today is more tangible: a Submariner from a significant period, with enough character to reward a closer look.